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How to Lap a CZ 452 Bolt


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#1 Pdwight

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 03:04 PM

How to Lap a CZ Bolt

First if you do not feel comfortable completely striping the rifle down to its components including the bolt and the magazine well do not even start this.

You will need JB Bore Cleaner and some non chlorinated Brake cleaner, old tooth brush, and especially safety glasses and some gloves.

first remove your magazine and put it away you will not need this for this process and if you have a scope I would remove it as well...just the basics here. Remove the bolt and load it up with JB Bore cleaner, not valve lapping compound. The JB Bore Cleaner is a emulsifying solution that will keep the metal particles in suspension during this break in phase. Get an old leather glove and start working the bolt open and closed about 100 times. It will be rough at first and the smooth up a bit, remove and reload the areas you see the gray goo missing and repeat 200 times. This is usually sufficient but you may want to go an additional 100 times, you find the leather glove saves your hand from blisters. Keep the JB Bore off the bolt handle or it could effect the bluing given the amount of pressure from the leather glove. Now tear everything down, clean the JB Bore cleaner off the stock with a soft cloth and some furniture cleaner, do not get any of the brake cleaner on the stock or it will remove your finish. Remove the bolt and clean with a tooth brush (gun brush) and cleaner wearing safety glasses outside. Do the same or the action and magazine well, do not use the brake cleaner on the magazine well or it will dissolve it for you. Make sure everything is stripped clean and re lube and reassemble, it will be slick as glass now. Make sure the bore is clean as sometimes this gray goo may fine its way into the chamber.

Dwight
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#2 Guest_TONY Q.C.I.S._*

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Posted 13 February 2009 - 11:41 AM

Sounds like a plan, my bolt is tight and it snags when closing so I think this process will resolve or at least make the problem better. The bolt snag and free float are my only 2 complaints so far, thanks for the info Dwight. See you tomorrow, "T".

#3 Sneaky

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 07:05 AM

Dwight, fantastic results using this method, and best of all I have found a way to automate the process!!

There's nothing better than an enthusiastic 13 YO boy biggrin.gif

My CZ bolt is now smooth as the proverbial baby's bum cool.gif
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#4 John

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Posted 11 July 2009 - 01:12 PM

Dwight,

Mr. Thumbs Here, did the bolt lap exercise, polished both extractors, the extractor block, everything else that had a scuff mark and installed the J&P Custom Spring.

Will go to the range tomarrow, to see if I put everything back properly!

Thank You, for all your help.

John

#5 pawn

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 06:42 PM

Excellent information.

#6 IsaacCarlson

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 03:07 PM

IMO....coating the bolt with bore paste is not the best way to make the bolt feel better. The cocking jugs and bolt handle contribute significantly to the feel of a bolt. Most of the time, it is best to take the bolt apart and smooth/polish the contact surfaces and remove any burrs. Put some light oil on the bolt and run it. Bore paste will open up the tolerances and then your bolt will start to wear faster because it will have a little more slop in it. Dumping grit in and rubbing it around is a poor excuse for bolt work. It wears indiscriminately on everything it touches, not just what needs it. There is no replacement for detailed and through examination. Sometimes it is the sear rubbing on the sides of the bottom of the bolt. The obvious contact surfaces might look smooth, but if the sides of the raceway are rough, you will feel it when you move the bolt. Just my experience talking......

Edited by IsaacCarlson, 01 December 2011 - 03:08 PM.


#7 Scorpion8

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 09:16 PM

IMO....coating the bolt with bore paste is not the best way to make the bolt feel better.


Not sure I'd agree. Lapping in a set of locking lugs is one of the oldest customization procedures known. It allows for precise cutting of mating surfaces surface-to-surface, since that is where the cutting process occurs. Polishing outside of the action is too easy to remove too much here and not enough there to get the proper fit.
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#8 Pdwight

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 10:02 PM

Not sure I'd agree. Lapping in a set of locking lugs is one of the oldest customization procedures known. It allows for precise cutting of mating surfaces surface-to-surface, since that is where the cutting process occurs. Polishing outside of the action is too easy to remove too much here and not enough there to get the proper fit.


Its also how high end Coopers and Dakota's are done as well. But do your gun how you like....good to have you here on the forum with us.

Dwight
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#9 IsaacCarlson

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 09:56 PM

Lapping the lugs is one thing, lapping the entire bolt is another. Glad to be here.

Edited by IsaacCarlson, 04 December 2011 - 09:57 PM.


#10 datateknikk

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:49 AM

Hello! :-) I was searching on the web for how to lap a 452 bolt, and found this post in forum. Signed up in here, but really can`t find the instructions how to lap the bolt.. Is it removed, or am I just missing it? Any help would be much appreciated! Merry Christmas! :-)

#11 Pdwight

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 09:09 AM

That's strange, I wrote it and it's gone ???
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#12 cp1969

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 11:16 AM

Yep. It has vanished into the ether.
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#13 Thomas A.

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:16 PM

That's strange, I wrote it and it's gone ???


P

My 452 is on the way and I need this info. lol

#14 Pdwight

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:30 PM

I will re write it this weekend, I have it committed to memory
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#15 Thomas A.

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:03 PM

Thanks P

I cant wait for the U lux to get here MONDAY .

Thanks for all input and help this past yr.

TA

Will you add the trigger work info to?

Edited by Thomas A., 06 January 2012 - 06:18 PM.


#16 Willoughby2012

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:29 PM

Got my rings, got my scope, where the you know what is my CZ 455? Well I havent been accepted into the local gun club yet anyway. I go the last thursday in the month to meet the board and become a card carrying member of the Greenwod Gun Club.
Wait till the grandkids get here in the summer. If all goes way I am going to buy some of the CZ 513's for them. I better call my old boss and ask for some part time work. Thanks for all the good work on Rimfire Center.

#17 CZ_Lover

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Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:03 AM

Hi I'm tring to read this topic, Has it been deleted?
thanks

#18 Raven

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 08:24 AM

Guess the lapping instructions are gone forever. The bolt on my CZ 455 Varmit is a bit rough and I really would like to fix it. Don't have a local gunsmith. :(

#19 Pdwight

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 10:05 AM

How to Lap a CZ Bolt

First if you do not feel comfortable completely striping the rifle down to its components including the bolt and the magazine well do not even start this.

You will need JB Bore Cleaner and some non chlorinated Brake cleaner, old tooth brush, and especially safety glasses and some gloves.

first remove your magazine and put it away you will not need this for this process and if you have a scope I would remove it as well...just the basics here. Remove the bolt and load it up with JB Bore cleaner, not valve lapping compound. The JB Bore Cleaner is a emulsifying solution that will keep the metal particles in suspension during this break in phase. Get an old leather glove and start working the bolt open and closed about 100 times. It will be rough at first and the smooth up a bit, remove and reload the areas you see the gray goo missing and repeat 200 times. This is usually sufficient but you may want to go an additional 100 times, you find the leather glove saves your hand from blisters. Keep the JB Bore off the bolt handle or it could effect the bluing given the amount of pressure from the leather glove. Now tear everything down, clean the JB Bore cleaner off the stock with a soft cloth and some furniture cleaner, do not get any of the brake cleaner on the stock or it will remove your finish. Remove the bolt and clean with a tooth brush (gun brush) and cleaner wearing safety glasses outside. Do the same or the action and magazine well, do not use the brake cleaner on the magazine well or it will dissolve it for you. Make sure everything is stripped clean and re lube and reassemble, it will be slick as glass now. Make sure the bore is clean as sometimes this gray goo may fine its way into the chamber.

Dwight
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#20 Rush

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 07:55 AM

Got my new LH 452 Lux and cycled the bolt some. It is stiff and sticks. Lubed well with grease and oil in appropriate places and was noticeably smoother but still stiff and sticky. Cleaned and noticed the grease was coming off dirty. Re-lubed and continued cycling and re-living for a while. It is noticeably smoother but still not where I want it to be.

I did notice the lug opposite the bolt handle showed the most wear. I will most likely start the JB treatment when I get a chance. I mix JB and Mobile 1 to a thin paste when lapping 1911 together. But I know when to stop that process.

In lapping the CZ how do you know when to stop. Or is it the 100-200 strokes and quit.

Rush

#21 Pdwight

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 01:12 AM

100-200 will do the job.....the rest will happen on its on with use
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#22 chuck456

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:30 PM

My new CZ455 american does have a rough bolt also. In reading your instructions I can not find where you use the brake cleaner. Am I missing something?

Chuck456

#23 Pdwight

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 12:48 AM

Use non chlorinated brake cleaner on metal only and when it is out of the stock...it will destroy youyr stock finish and disolve the magazine well.....use safety glasses.

Dwight
A hundred years from now it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove. But the world may be different, because I was important in the life of a child.

for Zach, Everett, and Lilly

#24 Rush

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 07:28 AM

One important point. When disassembling the bolt for cleaning look very closely at the extractors before removing . They are different. The hook on one Is not as sharp as the other. As I understand the dull one is the holder, the sharp hooked one is the extractor. I didn't realize they were different until after removing them. ittook me a while to figure out what was going on. Even more confusing since my left hand bolt is opposite the drawing.

Another area that will help smooth bolt operation is attention on the leading corner of the bolt lugs. Smoothing and breaking this contour will help the initial closing of the bolt. This was the area in my rifle that caused the roughest movement.
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#25 wep300

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:38 AM

I lapped my new 455 recently. Lockin lug on the bolt was smooth without lapping so I kept the bore paste out of there to prevent increasing headspace Most of the roughness was from machining marks on the inside of the receiver. jb took the peaks off and the bolt is now "almost" as smooth as an annie
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#26 teetertotter

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 06:02 PM

After a brick and bolt lubed with Mobil 1 synthetic automatic transmission fluid, sliding action was what you'd like it to be.


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#27 donw

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Posted 17 November 2013 - 01:23 PM

bolts, and other moving parts, will 'naturally' wear in with use.

 

i, normally, over lubricate the bolt/action with a good gun lubricant, and sit and operate it while watching the tube, clean very frequently, re-lube, repeat.


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#28 sparky570

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 05:20 PM

Hi Guys,,,i have about 2 thousand rounds I guess thru my 455,,its smooth now,,,lol,,,it was tight at 1st but I kept using KELLUBE on it,,it almost seemed like it got smooth as soon as I put the stuff on






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