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Remington 40X .22 LR

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#1 Phred



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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:33 PM

Bought a Remington 40X from CMP late last year and just getting it to the range. It seems very sensitive to pressure on the stock that affects it's accuracy. I've seen some of the discussions on barrel tuners for rimfire shooting. The 40X has two "escutcheon" screws in the fore-end of the stock. I have not been able to find much about them. The one manual about the rifle that I found mentioned the screws, but not their usage. I also have read one posting on this board about using heavy duty O-rings for barrel tuning. I will try that soon.

Can anyone provide some direction on using the escutcheon screws? I was planning to go to the range and experiment with them by increasing pressure between groups a click at a time. Right now, I have them close to, but not touching the barrel.

Has anyone had success with the O-rings on a Remington 40x?



Edited by Phred, 02 May 2010 - 07:34 PM.

#2 Bartman


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Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:45 PM

Most people back them all the way down and leave them. If you had luck tuning them it would probably change the nest time out. I think they thought it was a great idea, and may be for position shooting but not for benchrest

#3 patriot


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Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:40 PM

I've had good results with them shooting prone at 100 yards. Back the tuners away from the barrel, make sure the action bolts are tight, slide in a thin piece of paper, tighten both tuners until they just touch the paper, then give them 3/4 of a turn as a starting point.

Someone else said they use a volt meter to find the initial contact; interesting idea.


#4 Pdwight



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Posted 02 May 2010 - 09:46 PM

I've had good results with them shooting prone at 100 yards. Back the tuners away from the barrel, make sure the action bolts are tight, slide in a thin piece of paper, tighten both tuners until they just touch the paper, then give them 3/4 of a turn as a starting point.

Someone else said they use a volt meter to find the initial contact; interesting idea.


Years ago I was told by an oldtimer that 11 to 15 turns in after contact evenly was best....this seems like a lot but that is what I was told.

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#5 Guest_TONY Q.C.I.S._*

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:46 PM

Someone else said they use a volt meter to find the initial contact; interesting idea.

Here is a link to the info on volt/ohm meter tuning, just click the link.

Also here is a post from from Belvoir Media Group I ran across a while back when I first picked up my 40X.

In carefully controlled tests with rifles capable of sub-half-minute-of-angle accuracy, I found the stock-forend barrel-tuning device to be a definite aid to improving performance. In no case did such a device worsen accuracy. These tests were conducted using Remington Model 40X rifles, factory equipped with these devices. These included calibers ranging from .222 Remington through 6mm and some larger calibers.

This article will cover installation of triangularly positioned, adjustable bedding screws placed in the forend of a Remington Model 504 in .22 LR caliber. Five different barrels were fitted to the action of this rifle used in testing.

For bedding screws, I used a pair removed from a Model 40X Remington which were reduced in diameter at the internally threaded sleeve that retains the screws. The 5/16-inch screws have 32 threads per inch, which provides a thrust of 0.031 inch per turn of the screw. The tuning screws are positioned about an inch back from the forend tip and 9 inches forward of the barrel/receiver juncture. In actual use with match ammunition, a half turn on each of the tuning screws, after barrel/screw contact, moved the bullet's point of impact upward 3 inches at 50 yards. A full screw turn moved it up 5 inches. The target included shows how bullet point-of-impact and accuracy responded to the use of the tuning screws in this instance, which is quite representative of other barrels and bullets used.

Careful attention must be exercised in positioning the threaded sleeves that retain the tuning screws. You must be sure the thrust angle is correct, and that ample space in the stock is available. Most target-type stocks pose no problem, while many sporter-type stocks may. I was able to position the screws at a near 45-degree angle in the Remington 504, resting square with the barrel and spaced outside at 1-3/8 inches. Inside the stock forend, the screws are spaced about an inch from center to center.

I used endmills to make the holes, which cut perfectly clean holes. This involves a two-diameter hole--one inside the stock for the screw sleeve, and one for the extended adjusting screw which passes through the outside of the stock. The correct size endmill must be used for each hole. Be sure the sleeve hole is cut to the correct depth so the surface of the sleeve clears the barrel channel inside. Normally, free-floating barrels provide ample space here. The bottom of the sleeve will rest firmly on the clean-cut hole made by the endmill or other hole cutter, and if the sleeve is knurled, a slight tapping will hold it in place. Where the hole is a bit larger than the sleeve, some form of bonding agent may be required to hold it securely. A small amount of silicone adhesive will do as a more permanent bond would make removal of the sleeve quite difficult.

I chose to mill out a channel 1/2 by 1/2 inch at the bottom of the forend from the adjusting screws back to near the receiver ring. This slot is for a piece of metal to stiffen the forend, which is bonded into place with stock-bedding material or the like. I used Brownells Accu-Bond, which hardens solidly with no appreciable shrinkage.

Cleaning up the edges of the stock where the adjusting screws are positioned may be required, including a bit of stock finish.

Adjusting the tuning screws is simple, although each rifle and barrel, along with its load, is likely to respond somewhat differently to screw-to-barrel pressure. However, in the case of the Remington Model 504, set up with the tuning screws about 9 inches forward of the receiver, from one-half to a full turn showed the optimal accuracy improvement. This may vary somewhat with installation application, as well as with different rifles, barrels, and ammunition.

To determine barrel-screw contact, a thin feeler gauge can be placed between the screw and barrel. As a slight resistance is felt, this will represent the starting point of adjustment. As I have found, a tactile approach works perfectly well, too. Grasp the barrel and forend in such a way that the thumb touches both parts. Advance one screw until perceptible movement is felt, and stop there. Then do the same with the other tuning screw. From there, simply advance the screws against the barrel uniformly. A quarter or half turn will show a significant change in bullet impact on target.

Installation of the forend barrel-tuning screws shows a definite accuracy improvement in the Model 504 Remington, as it has in other rifles where these devices were installed.

The adjusting screws are easy to install with common shop tools, and the cost is minimal. Such adjusting screws can readily be manufactured as custom parts using a 1/4-inch fine thread into a knurled and threaded sleeve. In any case where improved accuracy is sought, this approach should be considered.

Edited by TONY Q.C.I.S., 02 May 2010 - 11:49 PM.

#6 jpickar


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Posted 11 May 2010 - 06:10 PM

My best groups have been when I backed the screws out so they don't touch the barrel.

My best group size was this spring, .060 C-C. The other 5 were anywhere from .120 to .200 c-c.


#7 hrt4me



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Posted 26 June 2010 - 04:56 PM

Thanks for the good information on barrel tuning.

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