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Disassembly/reassembly instructions 1948 550-1


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#1 soup

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 07:46 PM

Well I picked it up from the FFL today and it was Born on 9/48 (2 years after me) unsure.gif unsure.gif

It is in great shape but needed one of those, once every 60 year, take everything apart and hose it down with a case of brake cleaner cleanings.

But try as hard as I did (I even took pictures during disassembly) I can't figure out how to get the sear and trigger back in.

Anybody got put it back together instructions for this model? PLEASE SHARE!!! blush.gif



#2 Carl

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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:16 PM

Ouch!!!! I hope you didn't take the sear cup and spring out??? I guess if you took the trigger/sear out, you already have the spring cup out. That is where more 550/550-1s have been ruined. The sear cup is very, very tricky to get back in without cross-threading it. As a matter of fact, mine has been cross-threaded at some time in it's past, but luckily, it still works if I'm careful about adjusting the cup and Loctiting it in place where it works... about 1/4 turn from being tight.

As for the trigger/sear/carrier, I think the trigger needs to go in first (through the front hole) without putting the pin in, then the sear/carrier assy. with a "smaller than the pin" drift punch to hold the sear and carrier in the correct "general position". Then install the sear spring cup and spring being certain the upper end of the spring goes in the recess in the bottom of the sear. Then move the sear down and to the rear to fit the "hook" on the "notch" or recess or collar on the end of the cup. With everythin now in postion, carefully push out the drift punch with the cross-pin. Then install the trigger pin and then the safety.

Needless to say, these are not the most "user friendly" rifles to work on. Takes holding your tongue just right and using a lot of words most people might not use in mixed company, or especially with the kids around. It is definately best not to dis-assemble these rifles entirely. I recommend taking the upper reciever apart and just using brake cleaner or GunScrubber and spraying it out really good or soaking it for hours and blowing it out with compressed air. Be sure to get the recoiling (floating) chamber freed up while you are at it.


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#3 soup

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 04:50 AM

QUOTE(Carl @ May 1 2008, 12:16 AM) View Post
Ouch!!!! I hope you didn't take the sear cup and spring out??? I guess if you took the trigger/sear out, you already have the spring cup out. That is where more 550/550-1s have been ruined. The sear cup is very, very tricky to get back in without cross-threading it. As a matter of fact, mine has been cross-threaded at some time in it's past, but luckily, it still works if I'm careful about adjusting the cup and Loctiting it in place where it works... about 1/4 turn from being tight.

As for the trigger/sear/carrier, I think the trigger needs to go in first (through the front hole) without putting the pin in, then the sear/carrier assy. with a "smaller than the pin" drift punch to hold the sear and carrier in the correct "general position". Then install the sear spring cup and spring being certain the upper end of the spring goes in the recess in the bottom of the sear. Then move the sear down and to the rear to fit the "hook" on the "notch" or recess or collar on the end of the cup. With everythin now in postion, carefully push out the drift punch with the cross-pin. Then install the trigger pin and then the safety.

Needless to say, these are not the most "user friendly" rifles to work on. Takes holding your tongue just right and using a lot of words most people might not use in mixed company, or especially with the kids around. It is definately best not to dis-assemble these rifles entirely. I recommend taking the upper reciever apart and just using brake cleaner or GunScrubber and spraying it out really good or soaking it for hours and blowing it out with compressed air. Be sure to get the recoiling (floating) chamber freed up while you are at it.




If the SEAR CUP is under that big, staked in place screw, I didn't even get a chance to remove it, so it's still in place. smile.gif



This receiver was so dirty, that as I took the pins and such out nothing moved. it was full of what looked like dried white lead grease, and a gritty, grey mixture of dirt/dust and some kind of lube. While I was spraying it out everything came loose and shifted around or fell out into the baking sheet. So at least everything is now cleaned and lubed waiting for me to put it all back together?? blink.gif



I guess I'll keep trying different orientations of everything until it all fits back in, and goes bang when I pull the trigger. tongue.gif



Thanx for the suggestions. They'll get me on the right track, I hope. mellow.gif



#4 Carl

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 01:00 PM

Maybe with the parts breakdown you got on RFC and my instructions, you can get it together again biggrin.gif . I probably didn't explain it in detail enough, and it's been quite a while since I had mine apart. The "sear spring cup" IS the screw that is generally staked in. Guess I left out "spring" blush.gif . If your's has never been taken out, don't take it out!!! It's not worth the trouble to get back in.
“The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to


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people to restrain the government-lest it come to


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#5 soup

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 04:54 PM




DANG!!! it shoots, it cycles and it hits what I pointed it at!!!!! Thanx for all the help.



tumbs.gif







Edited by soup, 01 May 2008 - 04:55 PM.


#6 Carl

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 06:09 PM

These are not a simple .22 semi-auto, but they are very accurate and reliable. One more suggestion is to shoot a few shorts in it from time to time. It will help keep the recoiling chamber free or at least let you know when it might be sticking.
“The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to


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#7 Kizo

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 07:40 PM

Congratulations soup on getting your rifle working properly!
Carl,Great job of clearly explaining how to successfully assemble a very challenging mechanism!

Edited by Kizo, 01 May 2008 - 07:46 PM.


#8 soup

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:25 AM

Well this weekend "We", the 550-1 and I , went to the range. THIS IS ONE SHOOTER!! tongue.gif

After sighting the old Weaver B4 scope at 50 yds, blink.gif using some old stock Federal AM22, we took on some 2 1/4" plastic disks at 100 yds. first shot told the hold over was a smidge over the disk diameter. Put the crosshair s at 12 oclock high and BINGO excl.gif I love it!!


Figured out why the gun was so dirty too. the recoil spring is for a minimum power, 22 short, of the 40's, so with todays ammo the bolt was opening way too soon. rolleyes.gif New springs are on the way from Wolf.

Might have to go hunt up another one to keep this one company.



Edited by soup, 05 May 2008 - 09:29 AM.


#9 jallantaylor

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 10:16 AM

Beat head on desk.gif

howdy gentlemen..

my mom gave me a 550-I about 6 months ago and over the course of a week or so I tore it down completely... eventually I stained the stock walnut and cleaned and ceramic coated the barrel..

months later (now) I try to re-assemble... loads of fun. I really need help.

I do not think the bolt is going all the way back. I know it will not cycle long rifle rounds (I have dug a few out of the chamber with a flathead) - I am not sure where I went wrong but I have a few ideas. Herere are my questions.

1. How far does the bolt go back?
2. Which way does the ramp flange on the recoiling chamber go?
3. What can you paint the barrell with? Ceramic coating doesnt work too great and I want to try something else next breakdown.

THANKS!!

Edited by jallantaylor, 02 January 2009 - 10:17 AM.


#10 Carl

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 11:48 AM

jal.....,

The bolt should be able to travel back to the point where the rear of the bolt handle is about even with the front of the enlarged notch at the back of the slot, or about 1 1/2".

The ramp on the back of the recoiling chamber should be down. I would think if the bolt is going all the way forward (watch the spring loaded extractor to be certain it is touching the barrel ramp) it should be positioned right. Really only one way they will fit in.

Are your springs assembled right in the bolt? Also be certain the carrier is in the "up" position before inserting the bolt into the receiver.

The way the "recoiling chamber" works is it should be "locked" in place by the front edge of a LR or Long case until the chamber pressure starts to drop off, at which point the caes releases it to be extracted... a delayed extraction. With a Short, the front of the case does not delay the extraction.

As far as re-coating the barrel, I've never tried anything except bluing... I have used cold blue or taken parts to someone that hot blues. I don't know why ceramic coatings would not work, but as with all metal finishes, metal prep is more important than the actual process.


“The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to


restrain the people; it is an instrument for the


people to restrain the government-lest it come to


dominate our lives and interests"


Patrick Henry

#11 jallantaylor

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 12:12 PM

Carl - I PM'd you my number, please give me a call if you got a second. OR I can call you if you don't mind..

The recoiling chamber is in correctly with the ramp down -

but the bolt is not going all the way back. It only goes about half way through the notch for the handle - what springs in the bolt? LOL did I lose something? I am going to look around for parts to see if I can figure out what you are talking about.

Thanks, Jeff

#12 Carl

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 12:34 PM

Probably mis-leading... what I meant was the upper receiver assembly where the springs go in behind the actual bolt.

There should be a "main spring plunger" that is behind the firing pin... should be a small diameter spring over that. There should be a spacer or bushing against the back of the bolt, the large dia. spring (action spring)with a long sleeve inside it at the rear, the action spring retainer (the clip looking thingy) and the receiver cap.

Going to go help a friend try to figure out his new wiring harness on his 9N Ford tractor, so will be gone for a while... still havng trouble, I''ll see what I can do later. We need to get rsv1mos over here from RFC... he's the real 550/550-1 guru.


“The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to


restrain the people; it is an instrument for the


people to restrain the government-lest it come to


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Patrick Henry

#13 jallantaylor

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 12:41 PM

Here is what I have figured out so far...

I have all springs in place (hopefully the right place) - and the bolt will not go back unless I remove the sear cup (case) and spring. But when I remove the sear cup/spring the bolt goes all the way back.

I think the sear cup threads are buggered and I am having a hard time getting it back in - not sure how this is related to the bolt not coming back problem tho..


#14 jallantaylor

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 12:58 PM

The sear cup is the problem.. it is not threading right.

It is threaded crooked but snug - so the thing works for now.

what a PITA!

What do you do in this case? Modify the sear assembly?

I just want to shoot a squirrel!

#15 Carl

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Posted 02 January 2009 - 08:27 PM

Most people working on 550 series rifles recommend not removing the sear spring cup if it's not absolutely nessesary... I have recommended it several times myself. However, I know you had disassembled this a long time ago and maybe hadn't seen the posts on that. My 550-1 had been taken apart in it's past and cross-threaded. Only way I could make mine cycle right was to screw the cup in all the way with Loctite on the threads and then back it out about 1/4 turn. After the Loctite set up, it works fine.... it just would not work with the cup screwed in tight.
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people to restrain the government-lest it come to


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#16 jpickar

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Posted 25 January 2009 - 07:16 PM

I have my dad's 550-1. I have taken it apart a few times and I alwys spend some time putting it back together. They aren't the easiest. but the Marlin 60 is the worst i have ever messed with.
John




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